Russian Winter is a stereotype that has existed for a pretty long time. The bitter cold temperatures, in which only a warm sheepskin coat and fur-lined boots can warm you up. Scalding hot tea, poured from a samovar, which is served with Russian bagels and pancakes with caviar. A snow-covered city with shining domes from the churches and a trio of horse carriages rushing down the streets… It is a pity that the climate is no longer like this, and that the horses are now harnessed to the sleds only for the holiday entourage. However, if you travel to Suzdal to celebrate Maslenitsa (Pancake week), you can easily believe in the 'real Russian Winter' and even say ‘farewell’ to it in an old traditional way.
When I first learned that the name 'Suzdal' is masculine in the Russian language, I could not get used to the fact that this is a patriarch city, a boyar city. And that they celebrate Maslenitsa in Suzdal pretty wildly - drunk, loud, and cheerful. They chase geese, sing songs on the way home, climb poles, bake thousands of pancakes and lavishly put caviar on top with large wooden spoons. Well, I will tell you what you can do in Suzdal.
This is the most exciting part of the 'Pancake Week' festivities, most of which are organised by the Vladimir-Suzdal Nature Reserve. Once upon a time, goose battles were the main form entertainment taking place at the end of each Winter. During mating season for the birds, the necessary “fighting spirit” is guaranteed - everybody is ready to fight for the desired female. They pick from a fighting breed of geese for the battle (I had no idea that there were such a thing); 'angry birds' grab each other by the wings. Well, this spectacle is not for everybody. There is no 'first blood', geese can twist their necks and simply stand for an hour. But the good news is that not a single bird suffers during the fights, besides boiling with anger or blushing with shame and fleeing the battlefield defeated. Nowadays, only 'goose-warriors' fight, and as a trophy they get their desired female goose. And then the next generation of breed appears for fighting. Goose fights are held on the grounds of the Museum of Wooden Architecture and Peasant Life. Geese enter the snow ring five times a day. The fighters are represented according to protocol - weight, colour, nickname. "One is grey, the other is white - there are two cheerful geese" - the old Russian comedy song is the soundtrack for what is happening.
For funny pictures, you need to think-over your look. A bright Pavlovo Posad shawl with large flowers, felt boots and a long skirt are required. It would be better for men to find a sheepskin coat and a warm hat with earflaps. And then just use your imagination! A photo with a steaming cup of tea at a samovar and a Russian bagel in hand. Another at a snow-covered mound in front of one of the wooden houses owned by wealthy peasants. Or, at a well carrying a bucket, or at a mill, a porch, or even walking along the village streets with a rural church in the background... There are three of them in the museum: Nicholas Church, and the Resurrection and Transfiguration of the Saviour Churches. So, the scenery is perfect for lots of ideas. The museum has nearly four dozen old buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries, which were brought from the villages of the Vladimir region. Many houses are open to the public, inside you can see ordinary furnishings and imagine the life of an ordinary peasant family: a Russian stove with a stove bench, a ‘red' corner ('beautiful' in old Russian) with icons, spinning wheels, cradles, chests, a table with benches. In the Summertime the museum cheerfully celebrates the Holiday of the Cucumber. It takes place on the third Saturday in July.
This open-air museum is a modern replica. It became famous because of the fact that it consists of the entire scenery for the film "Tsar", which was filmed in 2008 by Pavel Lungin. The buildings were erected with historical accuracy - this is how a Slavic settlement looked in medieval Russia in the X or XI century. A town with residential houses and buildings of various purposes was built along the banks of the Klyuchnitsa River, with a wooden Shchurov bridge over it. The surroundings are also very suitable for photography – all around there are wooden huts, dugouts, wooden blockhouses, adobe ovens, forges, barns in which sheaves of hay were dried and grains and flour were stored. On the territory of the Shchurov settlement, there are boats, which were brought from all over the Vladimir region. Of course, there is also a barnyard where you can learn how to milk a cow and a goat, or feed a rabbit. By the way, in the Shchurov settlement, you can gain other skills: learning to shoot a bow or throw a spear at the enemy, or weed beds.
This temple is the oldest of all that survived in Suzdal, it was built in the XIII century. It is on the UNESCO list and on everyone who visits MUST-SEE list. You need to pay attention to the iconostasis, the 19th century water-blessing bowl, designed in the form of a samovar with four taps, as well as numerous rarities of ancient Russian decorative art and painting of the 13th-17th centuries. The most important valuable in the Nativity Cathedral is the 13th century "Golden Gates" painted in gold on red copper, which once adorned the southern and western doors of the temple. They depict scenes from the New and Old Testament, the characters of which are the Archangel Michael and the Mother of God. Here you can see the oldest images of the Intercession holiday, which was greatly revered by the princes of the city of Vladimir.
The slide can be found right next to the mound of earth near the Kremlin, which everyone slides down after every snowfall. Downhill sliding is Russian fun. During the Maslenitsa celebration those who drank a lot of mead compete with each other in ‘strength': fearlessly sliding down on snow tubes, sliding pads, sledges and even on frozen old mattresses. The main thing is to look around - there are always many children on the slides. And down there, do not forget about the old saying: “Slide down the hill and 'roll' in pancakes”, which means - eat pancakes, as many as you can!
Mead is an alcoholic beverage from about 3.5% to 18% ABV. In Russia it was made of fermented honey and water. Each housewife had her own recipe consisting of rose-hip, or cinnamon, juniper, cloves and other spices. In old times, a honey wine was poured into oak barrels and buried in the ground for many years - to age. Then they learned how to brew mead. At the Maslenitsa fair, you can safely try whatever is poured in a shot glass. At the tasting, you can try a dozen types of mead with a variety of flavours - Cossack, Two-quarter, Five-altyn, Strelets and many others. The tasting room is in the Trading Arcades at 63a, Lenin street. 10 shots for 200 rubles.
The first fortress was erected on the Kamenka River by Vladimir Monomakh in the XI-XII centuries. They built earth mounds, the landscape has been changed with ditches and ramparts. The centuries and many fires destroyed several cathedrals and churches that were built on the territory of the old Kremlin. The five-domed Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin has survived to this day, although it has undergone many changes over the centuries. You can also see the Archbishop’s chambers, the Annunciation Refectory Church, and the single-domed Nicholas Church with its large apse, and the Assumption and Nativity of Christ Churches.
Saviour Monastery of St Euthymius - where activists of the Decembrist uprising did hard labor. In the white-stone Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour, there are frescoes from the 16th century, and well-preserved paintings by famous 17th century masters Gury Nikitin and Sila Savin. The tomb of Prince Dmitry Pozharsky is also in the cathedral.
The Holy Intercession Convent was a place of exile for the wives of Tsars Vasily, Peter I and others.The Robe Deposition Convent of the 13th century, an ensemble that includes the ancient cathedral, the Holy Gates of the 17th century and the 72-meter monastery Venerable Bell Tower, which is visible from anywhere in the city. You can climb the belfry.
Church of St Nicholas and the Holy Cross, erected for the sake of salvation during the plague in 1654. You need to walk around the building to observe and admire how different it looks from different angles.
Obviously, the most convenient option is by car. It is about 200 km away from Moscow. Or by train to Vladimir, and then by bus from the Shchelkovo bus station.
The project "Four Seasons of Russia" is supported by the Russian Geographical Society www.rgo.ru
Travel to Suzdal is recommended by the Russian Geographical Society.
Photo: Adobe Stock
Additional reading about other cities in The Golden Ring of Russia:
Pereslavl Zalessky: The fæger of antiquity
Kostroma: Things to do in the heart of The Golden Ring of Russia
Also read about old Russian cities:
Velikiy Novgorod
Nizhny Novgorod
Plyos: Exactly as it was during Levitan's Time
Translation: Irina Romanova, Instagram: @astrabella1
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