Crab fishing is a very exciting activity, as I would find out later. The closer the trap gets to the surface, the more intriguing it all becomes. It’s a nice way to feel the ardor, and you can actually bet — on zero if you think the cage will be empty, on the number of crabs, their kinds and bonus fish.
While the last preparations for fishing were being made, I was standing by a breakwater looking at an old ZIL (a Soviet truck) hauling our boat to the water. All the machines are literally ancient; the car’s engine barely starts; the boats seem to be a few decades old. But everything is still working.
It’s very chilly on Sakhalin in May, so I was provided with a huge warm waterproof parka, men’s pants and a pair of rubber boots. They, of course, didn’t fit me at all; but fisherwomen are rare guests there; crab fishing is a men’s thing.
The weather was changing rapidly; in an hour the horizon seemed to be rubbed out near the Gulf of Patience; nothing was visible. The wind was sometimes clearing the view, so we could see some crooked pines by the shore and the sea lions swimming nearby.
It is common knowledge that the ice often gets close to the shores of Sakhalin. It emerges suddenly and can block the sea at a distance of about 300 kilometers from Tyuleny Island. Then, when a strong wind starts blowing, the ice disappears just as quickly. There was no ice, and I didn’t see the killer whales, which sometimes move rather close to the shore.
The briefing on crab fishing is short enough, and then there’s a practical part. There are five kinds of crabs. The most famous and the most expensive one is the Red King crab; it is also the blandest one, as the locals say. The most delicious ones are the Blue crab, loved by quite a few people, and the Hanasaki crab. Pilumnus hirtellus is especially loved by the Japanese because of its extremely delicious liver. The Striped crab is rarely caught.
The water is super cold in May, about two degrees Celsius. Even if you jump out of the boat wearing a swim vest, you won’t be able to hold on for more than two minutes. “Put the vest on or we won’t set out,” says the head of the “Aquamarine” base, Valeriy Chernomaz; he’s also the captain of our ship setting out for crab hunting.
The company which organizes crab fishing must follow certain rules — placing traps of a particular size only in legal zones, not hunting during the months when it’s prohibited. Valeriy Chernomaz follows all the rules, although he admits he may be the only one doing so.
Orange Fact
The crab is the biggest crustacean in the Far East. It can reach a length of 1.5 metres and weigh 7 kilograms. Its lifespan is about 20 years.
— We’ll catch a dogfish if we’re lucky! — said the captain.
— A dogfish? — I asked.
— Yeah. The Eastern wolffish. It’s freaking delicious.
— I’m sure we’re going to be lucky! — I said, dreaming of seeing the rare fish. — We’ll catch it!
— Ahh, you women. Who talks that way before fishing? — the captain told me off.
While sailing in a cloud of fog towards the first GPS marks made by Valeriy, I was fighting slight seasickness. Actually, I immediately forgot about it when we reached the first point after half an hour. The fishermen prefer to set the traps using GPS; this guarantees that the equipment will be safe from poachers. Using the anchor hook, one of the fishermen caught the rope deftly and started pulling the trap up. I was excited.
The crabs inhabit an area that’s about 2.5 kilometers away from the shore and 20–30 meters deep; that’s why they can only be caught with traps. The Hanasaki crab is the only one that can be caught with hands in shallow waters. The Hanasaki females spawn by the shore, but it’s illegal to catch them.
Orange Fact
Crabbing for spiny crab is prohibited on Sakhalin from 1 June to 31 August.
There were a lot of crabs in the trap. Only a few crabs were considered fine though; others were thrown back out. According to the rules, female crabs and young crabs should be released. It’s necessary to think about the future, but the rule doesn’t seem to work for the poachers. We were following the law, however, and all the females caught in our traps were instantly released back to the bottom, after making a few pirouettes in the air, to continue their important mission of reproduction. Only the strong male crabs get into crab hell — a pot with boiling seawater. If only it were like this in life.
– And how do you distinguish between the males and females? – I asked.
– Females have a round butt, like all the girls, and males have a triangular one – said Valeriy, laughing.
After I had found the crab of the same gender as me, I studied the shape of its butt and sent it back to the sea.
Actually, the major part of the catch is thrown back to the sea; there are only about ten crabs that can be kept. But it’s more than enough for a big team dinner. Showing a bit of disgust, the fishermen throw out wolffish that are caught in every fifth trap.
One of the traps was heavy; it was obvious that something special was on the way. Inside, there was something that made the trap spin. Through the grid, I saw something looking like a moray eel. But this fish was even more disgusting. It was the Eastern wolffish. We had caught it! It was of average size, but the captain was happy. It was the catch he had expected. After a long bloody fight, the tiger calmed down. It was a graphic sight. The boat floor was covered in blood, which had to be cleaned with buckets. I was just in time to pick up my backpack.
Orange Fact
The Eastern wolffish can reach a length of one metre. Adult fish can attack any creature larger than themselves, and can also easily crush shells with their teeth.
There were so many traps that it was impossible to give an accurate number; I think there were about 30. I had also lost track of time; twilight was coming, but I was so involved in the process, which turned out to be incredibly interesting. It’s the best you can do on Sakhalin; it’s really worth coming there.
After picking up the traps and sorting out the crabs, the fishermen filled plastic cans with pieces of fresh fish and placed them on the bottom of the sea. Valeriy changed the navigator marks. We turned back to the shore where an old ZIL was waiting for us, standing halfway in the water.
The crabs were cooked in the backyard. I was learning to peel their shells and legs using scissors; I was only able to get the meat by myself on the second try. But the meat! You’ll never try something like this in Moscow as only the Red King crab and the Hanasaki crab are transported there. But the best crabs are those which are freshly boiled in salty seawater. That’s why they are usually cooked right after they have been caught; 10–15 minutes is enough to taste the best crab in your life!
It’s not a problem to buy crabs in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Just before our flight, we checked out the local market to have a look at the delicacies and the prices. It’s cheaper to buy crabs straight from fishermen, as the price per kilogram of boiled crabs reaches 3,000 roubles at the market. Ready-peeled crab legs are a bit more expensive: 4,000 roubles per kilogram. Pink salmon, chum salmon and masu salmon are also sold there. Oysters, mussels, scallops, sea cucumbers and, of course, caviar are sold there in a huge variety. Prices at the market have also changed since my visit. It is still cheaper to buy crabs directly from fishermen, while market prices depend on the season, the catch and the type of product: whole boiled crab or ready-peeled legs.
Though all the salesmen can put the purchases in a thermal bag, it’s better to eat the seafood where it is caught. And it’s even better to catch it yourself!
The main gateway to Sakhalin is Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. The city airport is located in Khomutovo, about 10 kilometres from the centre. From the airport, you can reach the city by taxi or by bus.
Crabbing tours usually start in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. The exact meeting point depends on the operator. In one official tour description, the meeting point was Victory Square, followed by a transfer to the crabbing site.
One of the main areas for crabbing is Mordvinov Bay. Official tourist materials describe crabbing tours there, with a transfer from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, a safety briefing, crab hunting and a meal prepared on site.
The daily limit for recreational spiny crab fishing on Sakhalin is up to 10 crabs per person. The catch must follow the official rules, including restrictions on species, size and fishing area.
No. Recreational fishing rules are strict. It is prohibited to catch red king crab, horsehair crab and female crabs of all species. Spiny crab is also prohibited on the western coast of Sakhalin.
The safest option is to book through a local licensed operator or an official tourist information channel. The operator should provide transport, equipment, a safety briefing and information about current fishing restrictions.
The price for crabbing: 10,000 roubles per person per day. Current tour prices depend on the season, the operator, the programme and the size of the group, so it is better to check the price before booking.
More about Sakhalin here.
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